I have linked an excellent overview of tap styles and when each style is appropriate to use. Chip direction (forward or reverse) is driven by the geometry at the tip of the tip. The number of flutes has zero impact on the direction the chips move. The one 3/8" hole drilled so far will be accepting a 3/8-16 bolt whose receptacle is the load/source side of a 500 amp Deltec shunt.Ĭlick to expand.Respectfully, this is not accurate information. The Brass bolt heads will not be easy to access, and I'd rather not even attempt to solder such a thick mass of copper to lock them in place I'd love to be able to bottom out the brass bolts, and then not have to worry about soldering them, or securing their heads so that I do not need to use two wrenches to tighten the ring terminals against the bar. So this 3/8" thick, 1 inch wide copper bar is overkill, which means its just about right. I am making my Own Bussbar, for 2/0 cable, which will rarely see a maximum sustained current of 240 amps. With No experience using thread forming taps, I am wondering if they pull themselves into the predrilled hole, or if they have to be lowered/ forced into the predrilled hole with precision I can never achieve by hand. Researching this, I ran across the recommendation to use thread forming taps rather than thread cutting taps. I've drilled and tapped copper before without a drill press, for 6mm metric thread ( nippondenso alternator + output stud), but was less than impressed with the results.
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